Tuesday 26 March 2013

Moonshine Whisky.

I have written before about my love of whisky; not just drinking it but the nostalgic imagery that surrounds and swaddles it. Hills, heathers and kilts. Fortunately for me (and the tourist trade) even the biggest and most modern distilleries can still accurately be described as quaint and picturesque.

As a whisky enthusiast I am often asked what my favourite whisky is. This is not an easy question as my favourite whisky depends rather a lot on the situation. For my hip flask then whatever is on special offer will do just fine. A cold winter night however will be better suited to a nice, peaty malt from Islay. However on a sunny summer afternoon I might instead opt for a lighter Speyside malt.

Amongst all of this is one constant. A lasting favourite is Edradour. This dram will satisfy me pretty much regardless of time of mood. As well as the dubious honour of being one of my favourite whiskies, Edradour is also the smallest legal distillery in Scotland. In terms of output, Edradour produces in a year what bigger distilleries produce in a week. Not just that. The distillery is little more than a collection of small farm buildings hiding in a glen at then end of an anonymous-looking farm track. Recently they have added a conference centre added to their repertoire but it is genuinely invisible from most parts of the distillery. Combine this with the stunning views it commands over the Highlands and you have a true hidden gem.

From the last few paragraphs you can probably tell that I've tasted my fair share of whiskies however there is one that has, so far, evaded my palette and one I would dearly love to try... moonshine whisky. Moonshine is whisky that has been produced illegally (in Britain, it is illegal to distil alcoholic spirits. This is to ensure that the tax man gets his cut). I love the idea of drinking whisky distilled on a small scale over and open fire in a glen somewhere; hidden from everywhere. Ideally it should then be aged in a barrel in the back of a shed or barn well away from prying eyes. Forgotten about for years while magic happens.

I am well aware of the potential for things to go horribly wrong. Almost inevitably, the products of hobbyists is unlikely to be of a similar standard to those produced by the professionals. If nothing else, any tweaks that are made will take years to mature before the effect can be judged (legally whisky can only be whisky after three years in an oak barrel. For it to be any good, it needs about eight). It takes literally generations to fine-tune a whisky.

Objective assessment aside, I still love the idea of the charm and mystery of trying a moonshine malt in somewhere secluded and combining my passion for drinking whisky with the distiller's passion for making (and presumably drinking) it.

I'm not going to lie, as well as the product of passion angle, sampling moonshine also appeals to my rebellious streak. The whisky that evaporates during the maturation process is known as the angel's share. I don't begrudge the angels a drop, especially since they smile on the distilleries and help produce one of the most magnificent drinks in the world. I do however grudge the tax man the enormous cut he takes of the whisky maker's profits. I understand the need for taxation and, on balance, am rather proud of being a taxpayer. However I object to this throttling of an industry I hold in great regard and and the placement of a product I love and want to share beyond the means of many.

Moonshine gets round this (albeit slightly illegally). The process of making whisky under the radar claims a little bit of our national drink back for Scottish nationals. As well as providing a hearty drink, it caters to the innately subversive nature of most Scots and for that it should be respected.

Now, anyone know of anywhere I can begin looking for an illicit still?

JR

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